Milan in 2 Days

Most first-time visitors to Italy flock to cities like Rome, Florence or Venice, and for good reason. They too were my go-to destinations for many years before I had the opportunity to branch out and explore other regions including Sicily and Puglia. And guilty, it had been 14-years since my first visit to Italy before I found my way to Milan for the first time. The city embodies the typical north-south distinction that is often made when talking about Italy, more industrial and business-minded vs. agricultural and laid-back, but offers so much richness in terms of art, history and culture (as well as wealth, power and ambition). It’s both a fashion capital and financial capital, which is reflected in everything from its architecture to its people. Here’s a sampling of some of what makes Milan unique from my all too brief 2 days in the city.

Day 1
We arrived in Milan via its main railway station Milano Centrale, which as its name implies is centrally located just northeast of the city center. I love European train stations in general, but Milano Central definitely commands one’s attention thanks to its imposing fascist-era architecture. The station was swirling with people coming and going, and we quickly made our way to the underground metro Line 2 towards our hotel. When we emerged into the sunlight we were met with a scene of destruction. The epic storm we experienced the night before on Lake Como seemed to have also wreaked havoc in Milan with hurricane force winds that uprooted countless large trees around the city and forced public parks and some museums to remain closed to visitors.

Our third-floor room at the Antica Locanda dei Mercanti was modest in size and décor but opened up onto our very own private terrace. At the reception we were flooded with apologies as the flowers had all been removed in anticipation of the storm, but we found the large patio to be quite inviting with its cozy seating, lush greenery and white lights for nighttime. We quickly freshened up and headed straight to the Duomo about a 10-minute walk away where we had previously booked timed tickets to visit the terraces via the stairs as well as the interior of the cathedral and museum (the latter was one of the sites that was unfortunately closed due to the storm).

Our visit began at the entrance to the stairs, which was a relatively easy climb to the first part of the terrace. Here there was a traffic jam of people stopping in their tracks to take photos of the first glimpse of the magnificence that is the Duomo. Little did most people realize, this was only the first of many opportunities to see the church’s intricate details up close as the walk continued around all four sides. Like other visitors, I was immediately swept away by the beauty of the architecture as we made our way through a forest of 135 soaring spies, 3,400 sculptures, gargoyles and other decorative elements, which took more than 600 years to complete. We were also treated to sweeping views of the city and square below from the rooftop of the church before making our way down to its interior. Late Gothic in style and built to impress, we marveled at the stone arches, flying buttresses, marble floors and stained glass windows that flooded the space with light. Back in the square we had an even greater appreciation for its exterior, which is covered entirely in expensive marble from a private quarry. The Duomo is just as impressive as one would expect, and perhaps even more so given its grandeur in both size and history. You can read more about the Duomo and other interesting facts in my post here.

Next we headed over to the adjacent Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, which is equally scrumptious in architectural detail and buzzing with people. This gorgeous shopping arcade filled with designer boutiques is also home to the Camparino in Galleria named after the world-famous aperitif. We found an open spot at the elegant bar and watched the magic unfold as well-groomed men in crisp white jackets and black bowties prepared cocktail after cocktail using its namesake red-colored liquor. Sipping our cool beverages while nibbling on dainty snacks was a welcomed respite from the mid-day July heat. Afterwards we reemerged into the sunshine and spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the city and doing a bit of shopping.

As the sun started to go down and temperatures cooled, we headed towards the Navigli district for dinner. It may be a surprise to some people that Milan is home to a series of canals that once served as waterways to bring building materials for the Duomo to the city, and today the area is a great spot for nightlife with restaurants and bars spilling out onto the sidewalks lining the canals. We first stopped at Luca e Andrea to engage in the ritual of aperitivo as one often does in Milan and throughout Italy in general. While this could center around a pre-dinner cocktail only, some bars offer an aperitivo special, where for a few extra dollars your cocktails are accompanied by a delicious assortment of items such as olives, potato chips and other little snacks. When in Milan…

For dinner, we had a reservation at the family-run Le Striatelle di Nonna Mafalda one street off of the Naviglio Grande. Striatelle is a type of flatbread that in this case is folded and filled with delicious ingredients and is anything but your typical ham and cheese sandwich. My husband ordered the Terre Verdiane striatella while I opted for the orecchiette cima di rapa. While my dish was a bit too rich and heavy, his sandwich was quite amazing but equally rich, filled with mortadella, stracciatella, tomatoes, peppers and pistachio cream. We spent the rest of the evening walking around a bit more before returning to our hotel where we relaxed on our terrace before calling it a night.

Day 2
Breakfast the next morning at our hotel included table service for coffee and a few hot made-to-order items, as well as a basket of rolls and croissants and a small buffet area with muesli, yogurt and fruit. We were also treated to large slice of homemade apple cake that was delivered to our table. Besides the Duomo, many visitors also flock to Milan to see Leonardo da Vinci’s masterpiece The Last Supper. The process of booking tickets is one that requires a bit of pre-planning and strategy (reservations are limited and open every 3 months for a rolling 3-month window), but if you miss this window another alternative is to book a private tour like we did. Our experience began with skip-the-line access to see The Last Supper followed by a small-group walking tour of the city. Known in Italian as Cenacolo Vinciano, the late 15^th century painting is located inside the refectory of the Santa Maria delle Grazie church and Dominican monastery. We met our guide Famina outside and she led us through the museum where a series of informational panels described the history of The Last Supper, which was miraculously spared from the bombings of Milan during WWII, as well as Da Vinci’s technique and ongoing restoration efforts.

Then it was our turn to enter the climate-controlled room, where a limited number of people are allowed in for a strict 15-minute visit. During that time, we looked up and marveled at Da Vinci’s iconic work, which was larger than I expected and not as high up as Michaelangelo’s work in the Sistine Chapel (if you’re familiar with that), allowing us to take in more of its detail at eye level.

Thereafter we made our way around the city where we learned more details of its history, stopping in areas such as the Sforza Castle (which also suffered damage due to the storm), Financial District and the La Scala opera house before ending at the Galleria and Duomo. The tour provided a nice introduction to all that Milan has to offer, leaving us with inspiration for future visits. Leaving our guide, our afternoon was punctuated by another aperitivo break at Bar Brera where we sat under a shaded patio and enjoyed cocktails and snacks on a quiet street across from the Pinacoteca di Brera.

Our last supper in Milan was one to remember, as we headed back to the Navigli and were treated to an amazing meal at Pizzeria Tradizionale. The outdoor seating was packed and the setting summer sun was harsh so we opted for a table inside the restaurant. Despite being far from Naples, this restaurant more than delivered with its delicious Neapolitan pizza. We were surprisingly not very hungry so (foolishly) split a Marghereita and quickly wished we hadn’t. The service was also warm and friendly, which rounded out the experience.

Leaving the restaurant we stepped back into the flow of people moving up and down the sides of the canal, scoping out other restaurants and bars for “next time”. Our time in Milan was short, following time spent hiking in Switzerland and a much anticipated visit to trace my family roots near Lake Como, but nonetheless sweet.